In days of yore, when we still roasted our coffee in the back of the cafe, the burgeoning Metropolis Coffee Company empire picked up its first wholesale customer: Standee’s, the venerable diner just a few doors down on Granville Ave., its lighted sign beckoning passersby like a slice of Pleasantville Americana. Standee’s closed earlier this year, 60 years after its first plate of scrambled eggs and hash brows was slung from the griddle to the waiting mouth of a hungry counter patron, and in its place emerged a contemporary icon of the neighborhood.
Building on the success of M. Henry on Clark St. in the northern stretch of Andersonville, where chef and head honcho Michael Moorman has built a miniature bastion of boutique-rustic breakfast Americana, the old Standee’s space this past Autumn became M. Henrietta. Like its brethren, it’s awash in the pale hues of farmhouses on the horizon, reclaimed features, and the sense that what separates kitsch from comfortable is presentation.
At M. Henrietta, it’s chow for now, for a new neighborhood.
And while Edgewater’s breakfast options got a whole lot tastier when Henrietta set up shop in the old diner space, did you know that they serve lunch and dinner, too? Where once workingmen consumed steaming hot patty melts, there now exists a local option that stays locally-minded in its kitchen, too. Like a Great Lake trout, for example, or a rad-sounding cheese plate.
Oh, and they have pudding, too. See you at the dinner counter.